It´s the end of the world as we know it...

...and I feel (super extra special) fine!

Okay, so just like I am a horrible phone caller, e-mailer, etc., I am a horrible blogger. Jonah arrived at El Cebreiro to meet me at the top of the mountain. I couldn´t imagine a better place to meet. Imagine fog drifting in off of the mountains, stunning sunsets, little round thatch roofed huts, celtic bagpipes playing in the background, and overall elation from everyone for having just completed the monsterous climb to the top of the mountain. The morning was equally stunning as you look down and see the clouds are actually below you in the valley. This is not my mental picture of Spain, but it is absolutely gorgeous. We continued through Galicia and ate the speciality of the region, pulpo, which is essentially octopus that has been beaten for hours while alive (so I´ve been told), boiled in a big vat, cut up with scissors, and sprinkled with paprika. It was actually quite good. Did I mention that being a vegetarian has gone completely out of the window? The hike through Galicia has been lovely, and cool, and even involved a little bit of rain, which I had almost forgotten existed on this trek. We ended at Santiago on Tuesday, and it is the most stunning city of all time. The cathedral is amazing, there are musicians playing guitar, singing opera, playing violin in the streets. Then when I thought things couldn´t get any better, we took the bus to Finisterre, which is absolutely stunning. Today, we plan to walk to the end of the world and watch the sun set over the ocean with a bottle of wine and a picnic. I love Spain!

lesson # 732 and 733

Today, I walked the 33 km from Leon to Hospital de O...... It was mostly flat, and I am told is a very impressive accomplishment for a ´chica.´Walked into the parossial albergue to the sound of Gregorian chants and took one look at the lovely, tranquil garden and decided I was staying here, even if that meant I wouldn´t know anyone at all. Well, I got to know someone really quickly as I forgot to lock the door to the shower (which also happens to open onto the courtyard) and was in the midst of towelling off my sweat when a young Spanish man opened the door. I screamed, he apologized 32 times, everyone got a good laugh. I came out of the stall a few moments later, curtsied to my adoring fans, and continued on my merry way (lesson 732 = always lock the door). I walked to the back yard and preceded to wash my clothes, by hand, again. I cursed my mother for never teaching me how to hand wash my clothing, and was taught how to use the washboard by an old Spaniard who pretty much laughed at me for about five minutes because of my poor laundering abilities (lesson 733 - wash clothes in private).

too tired to be creative

I reached Burgos today. They are having their annual festival and the streets are full of people and loud music, performers, people selling balloons, etc. I went to a bull fight which was...interesting. A true test of my decision not to judge other cultures. Afterwards, we decided we´ve had enough of Spanish culture and ate cheap Chinese food. I catch the bus in the morning to Leon which is awesome as I have sun poisoning, a bum left knee, and a new blister on my heel. I definitely need a break. Still having fun, but very tired. Too much to process. The walking has been lovely the last two days except for the last hour into Burgos. I am also quite nervous about skipping ahead because that means I´m leaving all the people I´ve been seeing for the past twelve days. Miss you all,

in the hospital

Okay, not a real hospital. I´ve been staying in pilgrim´s hospitals rather than albergues. These have been fabulous. They are donation based, and you cook and eat dinner with 25 other pilgrims from all around the world. I think this is a much better experience. Yesterday we ate paella and then had prayer in the top of the church in Granon (thanks Sarah G for the suggestion!) Today I am in another small town, which I have no idea how to spell, but we will be visiting this old hermitage built into the side of the mountain and cooking, eating, and praying together. It is so warm and welcoming, which totally makes up for the fact that I´m sleeping on the floor on a small mattress.

I am hiking smaller distances 20-25 kms a day, and have pretty much decided to sin and catch a bus for the stretch into Leon. It is mostly next to the highway, and there is no shade or water in the meseta. I need trees in order to be happy. Still hot, only rain at night, but my feet and joints are much better. I also have the weirdest tan lines possible. My calves and shoulders are very tan, but I have a white stripe on each hand, under my arms, in my elbows, and an awesome sock line. No wonder that old bartender told me I was mas bonita en todo el mundo. I also smell really great!

love to all,

images

So, today I reached Astorga after about 11 hours and 35 kms. Every joint in my body is in pain. Every single one. I think this is some sort of lesson about pushing myself, but I´m not sure what it is.

red clay, golden wheat fields, bright green grapevines with tiny grapes popping out in clusters, white and yellow butterflies, birds singing, storks in the cathedral tops, blue mountains in the distance, the sound of church bells, the rustle of wheat in the breeze, the largest bright blue skies, few clouds, the heat that radiates from above, below, and beside, the sound of my feet pounding rocks, occasional curse words, random songs that I sing, red wildflowers, purple prickly cacti looking flowers, the largest aloe vera plants I´ve ever seen (feed me, seymour), roses crawling up the sides of fences and buildings, red geraninums in tera cotta pots lining every window sill, snail cities on weeds and poles, sound of bugs in the fields, achy bones, hip joints, breathe in for 8, breathe out for 8, 6 different languages being spoken all around me at once, vino tinto from rioja, stinky cheese, apples, peaches, olives, bruise on my arm, sunburn on my calves and shoulders, dust in my nose, smile on my face.

river of the bull

I am in Rio del Torres right now. I walked 30 kms today. This morning, I woke up in the crazy hostel in Estella and led a yoga class for three Italian men on the patio. There was an audience and everything. Then we ate breakfast and listened to Bob Marley (no woman no cry has been in my head all day). I left the hostel and walked past the wine fountain, but even though they were supposed to open at 8, there was no wine coming out. We waited for like 30 minutes, but to no avail. One man commented that this ´was the longest pub crawl I´ve ever been on.

We wanted to stop in Los Arcos, but the refugio was full. It turned out to be great because there was a thunderstorm in the distance and we got to see the rain pouring down over the mountain. The best part was it actually rained on us for about five minutes, which was a lovely respite from the blazing hot sun. Seriously, it´s like I walked straight out of Washington State into the middle of New Mexico in a few short days.

Last night, I ate dinner at a local restauraunt that specialized in bulls´ balls. I had the fish.

horray hemmingway

I had started a blog two days ago from zubiri, but the computer was unplugged before I published it. I have spent the past two days taking it easy and relaxing by various rivers. My pack is TOO heavy. As I was finishing up my hike today, a guy rolled down his car window and asked me if ´tienes cansada?´ I didn´t know it was so obvious. i guess the panting of my breath and the beet red color on my face may have given it away. I walked through Pamplona today with another American, a German girl, and an Israeli guy. However, the hustle and bustle of the city was too much for me, so I bid adieu and continued on my way to the most wonderful albergue every. It has a garden in the back and a cold soda machine. The albergue last night was in Arres and was also beautiful, in an old convent. Even though it had this religious setting, it had beer in the vending machine!

Before arriving there, we stopped at the festival in Larrasoana. There were many delicious things to eat, accordian music to hear, free wine and cheese for the whole town at 12:30, and a country women´s sporting contest. These were the scariest looking women I´ve ever seen in my life (one looked like a younger version of Susan Boyle). They competed in tug of war, weight lifting, relay races involving more weights, etc. The whole town gathered to watch this spectacular spectacle of serious sporting senoritias.

So, all in all, I´ve only walked maybe 60 kilometers, but I´m learning to take my time and enjoy the sights.

much love to all,

invertabrate heaven

Okay, I´m sure I spelled that word wrong. Anywho. I´ve been in France for the past two days. The first day was the worst. Entirely uphill for 8 km. Then I finally try to sit for a while, look to my right and see a gigantic pile of doggie vomit and the three largest slugs I´ve ever seen crawling all in it. Today, as I´m walking through the land of mist and snow (okay, no snow, but very very cold) I start to feel like I´m in Ghostbusters and Slimer has been on the war path fighting the ghost of pilgrims past, but no, its just busted slugs. They´re like 4 or 5 inches long and have the girth of a hot dog. The earthworms are easily 8 inches long here. Crazeee.

Anywho, today I basically walked through the fog, and only had about 20 feet visibility on average. It was still rather magical, and the incline today was much more constant and easy than yesterday´s steep climb. I spent hours walking alone on these quiet country roads with the sound of cow bells and ravens in the distance. It was quite lovely and magical. Then i walked thorugh these amazing groves where the trunks of the trees grew out of the ground at a complete horizontal. I arrived to Roncevalles feeling quite at peace with the world and will spend tonite sleeping in a converted barn with 110 other pilgrims. I will probably not feel quite at peace if I experience the same level of snoring as I did after last night´s Ïnvasion of the Swedes. Seriously, it was a cacophony of chainsaws, the loudest ujiya breath, and an occasional moan or cough. They didn´t arrive until 10, and apparently, like my students, are incapable of whispering. Well, I´m off to find my new Israeli friend whom I lost in the fog on the mountain. Much love,

it takes all kinds

Don't have a lot of time as others want to use the computer. I spent all day yesterday on the train. During the last stage of my trip, I'm minding my own business when all of a sudden I see a guy wearing a long white pilgrim's robe. I figure, okay, he's dressed in costume for his trip, I like costumes, too. No big deal. Next thing I know, I turn around and everyone is wearing matching outfits and they begin to chant, in Latin, in the middle of the crowded train....for like thirty minutes. I, at first thought it was a cult of some sort, but I'm pretty sure they're just Catholic.

Last night I ate dinner with people from Holland, France, Canada, Bosnia, Ireland, and lil' ol' moi. Two of the guys who were riding their bikes really reminded me of muppets, but I can't remember which ones. The French women I slept with went to bed early, and although I heard them snoring all night, I did not hear them wake up this morning. I awoke to an empty room and fresh coffee downstairs.

Anywho, I'm about to hike up the side of a mountain. In the rain. Woohoo.

Much love,

in madrid

I have safely arrived at my hostel in Madrid. A few general observations:

1. Being at the airport for nine hours makes good people watching
2. The airport in Madrid smells like 6 year old cigarette smoke
3. People stare at you when you walk through a downtown area with a giant bookbag and hiking poles strapped to your back
4. Spotted - one TGI Friday´s and one Starbucks thus far
5. My backpack is TOO HEAVY
6. I can´t figure out how to make the at symbol without copying and pasting on this keyboard, which has about 10 extra keys.
7. Apparently I stink because people move away from me everywhere I go
8. The people at the airport and hostel were extremely friendly, everywhere else not so much, not unfriendly though
9. I miss everyone a lot.
10. My Spanish sucks, but I know my numbers and how to work the metro.

I´m off to shower and then maybe off to the prado museum for some sick and grotesque Goyas.

Oh, one more thing, half the restaraunts have the word jamon in their name, meaning ham.

Testing 1.2.3.

Figuring this out. :)